Author: sbford86

The purpose of this post is to inspire international travel with the aspirations to live like a local. A big part of this is doing your homework and finding unique AirBnB’s that suit you and your families needs. This may mean skipping those cushy hotels and the oh so instagramable tourist hot spots and discovering the smaller, quieter hidden gems sprinkled all around Italy really. I am not saying do not go to the classics: Positano, Amalfi, Capri. Only suggesting that you may find a more fulfilling experience if you are truly surrounded by locals, evade the crowds, and experience the small pockets of Italy that only locals know.

Arriving in Rome

We travel from Boston to Rome on a non-stop flight. I think the key to traveling anywhere with kids is finding things that suit their personalities and you really can never have enough snacks. I usually buy a new toy that they get to open on the flight because even 10 minutes of peace is worth every penny. We downloaded every movie and show we could think of and each child has their own tablet. For us, all rules go out the window especially when we are trying to keep a peaceful ride for our fellow travelers. Even though we are planning to head south past Naples, we opt to land in Rome for a few reasons. We have been there a time or to before so there was a level of familiarity, it is VERY family friendly and has bathrooms suitable for little ones with low sinks and changing tables, indoor play area in Terminal 1 & 3 and highchairs in the dining areas. The walk to the rental cars was long from our gate but is was all indoors and the process really was pretty simple.

Conca dei Marini

In the car! We bring our own car seats that are lightweight and fit in one travel backpack together which is super helpful! After those are installed we pack up the rest of our bags, buckle in the kids, and head to our first destination Conca dei Marini. We did pass by Napoli and stopped for a pizza. For us, its all we needed especially traveling with kids. It is very crowded, busy, high traffic and just not the vibe we are looking for on this trip though I am sure holds beautiful secrets and charms to be discovered, next time!

We stayed at a Villa that we booked on Air B&B. Our time in Conca di Marini was brief but we really felt as though we were living like the locals. Walking to the shops and restaurants, one restaurant in particular was just perfect with the most amazing food and huge ocean views and also what seemed to be a wedding venue, Le Bonta del Capo. We wanted to be a little ways up on the coast so we could really take in the beauty of the landscape and big ocean views! Unfortunately it was overcast for most our stay but it did not deter us from having a great time! We made the trek down to the ocean, toddlers in tow, which made the 20 minute walk feel more like 20 hours! We had physically and mentally prepared to the burden it would be to take on all those stair and do not regret a moment. Finally reaching the rocky shore, we rewarded ourselves with Limoncello and french fries from the wonderfully quaint restaurants followed by a dip in the warm Mediterranean. We had scheduled a pasta making class so our bliss was short lived as we hiked back up to our Villa and into the car to head to the booking. We arrived and were welcomed with, well desereved, wine and jumped right into kneading and rolling pasta. The hosts were fun, funny, and kind, involving the kids in the experience.

Cetera

We chose to skip over the actual town of Amalfi and as we drove by, our choice was validated. The flooding of tourists and crowds just does not appeal to us so we found ourselves at a fisherman village called Cetera. Our rental home was right on the water that we could jump right off the cliff into the water. Too choppy for the kids to swim but they enjoyed playing in the outdoor shower. The parking was a bit tricky but our host was very accommodating and made our stay so easy. True to Amalfi style, there were stairs everywhere, but we were in no hurry and let our kids walk and explore the town.

Mornings were spent walking the winding stairs to the village center to pick up croissants and coffee. There was a children’s playground and beach we would pick up a pizza and walk to. Nights we went to the Al Fresco restaurants and eat the local seafood flavors.

A spectacular beach club is carved right down the road called Giardini del Fuenti where we had a fantastic day letting someone lend us a hand and serve us food and drinks while the kids played in the tide pools. There was no shortage of sunshine, treats and fun cocktails as we watch boats go by and the sun sparkle off the ocean from our cabana. Highly recommend!

Fully recharged, we head to our next destination Alberobello. A few hours heading east we make it to our next detonation where we stay in a truly magical Airbnb design in Trulli style with our own pool and spa. The property was perfectly manicured with herbs and plants sculpting the landscape complete with a small garden and fig tree grove. Our favorite accommodations to date with all the peace and quiet you would want.

A common practice when we travel is to find accommodations where we truly enjoy the space and relax. We will pick up some grocery staples and some interesting local flavors to enjoy in the peace of our Airbnb. This home is a perfect example of a home that we just didn’t want to leave. The outdoor grilling area, pool, and magnificent sunsets made this place very special where the kids explored and we sipped on our limoncello spritz. On this trip we did venture to a few restaurants which can be stressful but not impossible! I believe the only way to set expectations on how to behave in public and restaurants is to simple go out and work through the struggles. It’s important for children to understand social norms and acceptable behavior, it can be hard but not impossible and can open up a culinary and dining world for them that you all can enjoy!

Lucera, Puglia

Sadly leaving our oasis in Alberobello, we head to Lucera to spend a few nights at a farmstay. On our drive there we stop in Monopoly for lunch. We only had a few hours here but I would go back for an entire week to stay in Monopoly. It reminds me of a coastal style mix between Venice and Rome on a smaller, more intimate scale. The streets are lined with hidden gem bakeries, restaurants, gelato shops, wine tastings and more. Cars are few when you get to the narrow streets to make walking in the shade of the tall buildings peaceful. The water surrounding the little town is a beautiful aqua and the churches are stunningly ornate with bells that ring off throughout the day. A truly charming town that you could get lost and found in all at the same time.

Back on the road to Lucera! I would be lying if I didn’t get the slightest bit nervous while heading to our Airbnb. As we left the coastline in our rearview mirror and inch inland, the flat vast landscape seemed to be losing its charm. Finally reaching our destination, all my worries faded away as we entered through a gated paved long drive into our private little farm stay. The owners, Gorgio and Maryann, take great pride in their property where they had also gotten married at! The Gorgio is not only the care taker of the animals but also the chef of all our meals. He meticulously crafted locally sourced ingredients for our meals during our stay. They gave us a tour of the property and let us know that the WIFI is spotty so that if we needed anything, we could ring the bell in the courtyard. Mornings, the kids would grab baskets and we would help him retrieve the eggs for our breakfast. Maryann made cookies for the kids and gaspachio for us. I can not tell you how delicious the gaspachio was and how I wish I hade the recipe! The property was so safe and so many places for the kids to play and discover. They even introduced us to their parakeet Viti who loves to place soccer and was a great time for the kids! After naps we would have strolls down to the fields and drink wine while we eventually watched the sun begin to set and head to dinner with a perfect set table for us in the courtyard. They dogs and cats on the grounds were playful guest to our dining with perfect manners and sweet demeanor, happily engaging with the kids.

Ciampino

Our last stay we chose strategically to position us better for heading back to the airport to catch a morning flight. About 15 minutes outside of Rome we discovered a enchanting Roman style home that will take you back through time. The grounds are vast and private tucked in a massive olive tree grove. What we loved about this space is the serenity we found just outside the city. The BBQ pit was perfect for grilling some meats and veggies that we procured from the local grocery store. During the day there was a sprinkler we set up for the kids to cool down in and a bike that they loved taking turns getting a ride on. We spent the golden evenings sipping wine and getting lost in the perfect rows of olive trees that expand as far as you can see.

So that’s our trip. They say that it’s silly to travel with young kids, its too much work and they won’t remember it. Maybe that’s true but these are my memories, my husbands memories, that we will cherish. When our kids are grown these are the stories I will tell my daughter about the time we climbed 1000 steps for croissants in the morning. I’ll tell my son every local tried to hold him and fell in love with his blond curls and blue eyes. They may not remember this trip, but we are building the foundation that inspires travel, adventure, culture and love which we hope to build into their lives from the very beginning.

The goal of this post is to kick the stigma that “life ends after kids” to the curb! You have a brand new adventure buddy to show the world to! Sure things may be more challenging and down right hard, but the reward is all that sweeter. We don’t regret a moment taking our daughter to quite literally the edge of the world with us and hope she enjoys the outdoors just as much as we do throughout her life.

There is a lot of planning and prepping when you decide to go on a 9 day camping road trip.  Even more so when you are taking along a curious and exploratory 10 month old and further still when your vehicle of choice is a 1972 International Scout II.  A vehicle that had not been thoroughly tested for the endurance and technical abilities needed for the terrain we had anticipated. Call us bold, courageous, foolish, or rash, but one Friday evening after hours of planning, prepping and packing we buckled our seatbelts and set forth on our first family adventure.

The Rig

The journey to the Utah Arches began in Los Angeles, our home base.  Our first stop was Las Vegas, usually just over a 4 hour trip but when your vehicle is laboring pushing 65, you take your time. After a 6-hour drive we arrived in Sin City where we spent the night at a friend’s house (Ricky and Lauren), a husband and wife, who would be joining us for two nights at our first campsite in Zion National Park.   Sunday morning we packed up our lunches and ventured to The Valley of Fire.

The Route

1. Las Vegas
2. Valley of Fire
3. Smithsonian Butte
4. Alstrom Point & Lone Rock Beach
5. The Domes
6. Moab & Long Canyon Road
7. Mammoth Dispersed Campsite

Valley of Fire

Just under an hour heading north on Route 15 from Las Vegas lies this noteworthy State Park.  It served as a sneak peak to the dust and red rock formations we anticipated as we made our journey through Utah.  We arrived around 11:30 and there was a significant line to enter the park.  Twenty minutes and 10 dollars later we were coasting down a sweeping road with natural red and white rock formations at either side of us.  I had researched and decided on a few key hikes that I wanted to try and accomplish, ones that seemed the most interesting and easiest with a baby.  We started at the first loop where we stopped at Arch Rock.  We felt that it was a good place to take photos and have a stretch.  Next we carried on further into the park and tuned onto White Domes Road.  This is a particularly beautiful drive as we headed to our first hike and designated lunch break at the Fire Wave.  This hike was easy to do, even with an infant.  We purchased the Osprey Poco as our carrier, which felt like it may be made with magic.  The weight is distribution and back support system lends to a comfortable and light feeling load. There is little to no shade on this hike, as with most hikes in the park, so sun protection and water are key. We were able to find a little shade next to a large rock where we had lunched and hydrated. We continued further into the park to attempt White Domes hike but time was against us and we needed to get to our first camp spot before the sun set. Off to Zion Park..

Smithsonian Butte

As the sun was setting, we raced to make it to our first campsite before dark. We had researched where we wanted to camp based on a very genius app called FreeRoam which is a place for the community of Campers, Boondockers, RVers and Vanifers to mark and review either established campsites or BLM land. It is almost like a Lonely Planet Camping guide but with multiple reviews and hidden or unique destinations. We used this for every campsite on our trip and highly recommend it. We arrived at Smithsonian Butte and found what we thought would have been a remote retreat to be bustling with campers on every turn. With the travel restraints tied with the ropes of the Covid-19 Pandemic forcing adventurers to adjust their 2020 plans and take up outdoor recreation in America’s own back yard, we should have suspected such. After all, we were also victims as our very detailed trip to the Amalfi Coast had been canceled…but more on that later. For now we were fortunate to have a very capable vehicle that granted us access to a perfectly secluded cliffside after traversing a true test to an off roading vehicles ability to climb the steep and jarring incline. With just enough time to admire the suns light paint the rock formations a fiery red as deep shadows creeped over the horizon, we quickly set up our refuge. Our roof top tent is a M.I.A. custom model diamond plated shell that slept my husband and I comfortably and provided enough room to set up a Joovy Gloo infant travel bed for our daughter. We decided we needed to house our very mobile 10 month old in a pop up zippered tent to provide safety in the elevated sleeping arrangements and the Joovy worked out great! The canvas of our night sky transitioned to black and became freckled by stars, we cheered our friends excited for the first night in our Utah Journey.

The sun rose on our first morning camping on the cliffside on the heels of Zion Park. We had reservations to hike a portion of The Narrows, one of the most famous Zion hikes. Upon research, this is a beautiful hike that can be family friendly depending on your level of skill and adventure. It is a river trailing hike which requires traversing hip to chest deep water at some places. We were planning on taking more of a stroll and puddle around the water with our wobbly yet walking 10 month old, but were deterred by a bloom of toxic cyanobacteria infesting the waters. Not willing to risk our health we decided to enjoy a nice lunch at Meme’s restock our supplies for dinner and enjoy another peaceful star lit night around a campfire with friends.

In the morning my family and I headed out to our first highly anticipated campsite, Alstrom Point as our friends , Ricky and Lauren ventured to the Angels Landing Hike. This hike is NOT family friendly by any means. It is narrow, steep, dangerous, but undoubtably stunning. An adventure we will revisit once our Emmi is of suitable age!

Alstrom Point

We wake in the early hours of Monday morning and part ways with our friends. They are off to flirt with angels hiking a trail designed by the devil, Angels Landing, we are venturing to find the end edge of the earth and make it there in one piece. God willing. The drive through Zion Park is certainly a stunning one. Even if you find that you are not interested in hiking the trails, the switch backs, tunnels and landscape is unlike any other place we have visited thus far. It took 2 hours heading east on highway 89 to reach Big Water where we assumed we would pass a grocery store to restock our supplies and head to Alstrom Point, that pit stop never materialized though we did find a gas station and a helpful local who advised us on the second part of our journey for that day.

The road that takes you to Alstrom Point begins off of highway 89 down what can be described as an industrial park of sorts for boats, aquatic equipment and off roading vehicles. We turn right down what seems like a service road and when the pavements ends, we know our adventure begins. The sandy gravel road for our 1972 metal machine made for quite the bumpy ride. Dust billowed out from beneath our tires at the cab rattled and shaked, my husband and I praying no screws or bolts wiggle themselves loose. The landscape twists and turns as we use the best of our Scouting Skills and make it to our camp site, again as the sun sets. This time the sun setting over the horizon and infront of us lays the great open basin of Lake Powell. We make camp, heat a can of chili, pop a bottle of wine and settle in for the cosmic show above our heads. We tuck in for an early bedtime to wake with the sun and exchange our wine glasses for coffee mugs. 

The sun climbs slowly, its fiery glow chasing away the darkness and illuminating the horizon in a pastel of colors as the lake below begins to glow an emerald green. For not being a morning person, i’ll endure the sacrifice of sleep. We make breakfast, say goodbye to the edge of the earth, and follow the rough road back to highway 89. Next stop Lone Rock.

Lone Rock

Lone Rock Beach Camping ground is first come first serve. There is plenty of space but you need to have 4 wheel drive and a capable vehicle if you want to camp all the way down at the waters edge though there are other sites available for any style of vehicle. What was so attractive about this site is that, being on sand and by the lake, you are able to have a campfire. There have been a lot of campfire bans lately so always be sure to check your destinations and obtain a fire permit. A public campground like Lone Rock Beach isn’t typically our style. We gravitate to the peaceful, isolated, and lesser know BLM style camping which made the Free Roam app such an asset. Even though we were surrounded by a number of other campers, we were still able to find a spot where we felt we could stretch out and find our peace. We spent the day playing in the sand with our Emmi, building a campfire ring with some stones we plucked around the waters edge, and setting up our tent. I don’t think I’ve mentioned that our M.I.A. roof top camper is pretty remarkable and sets up in minutes and sleeps the 3 of us very comfortably. The sun begins to set and we mix up some golden hour cocktails to walk the shore and watch the again as the pinks, orange and blues return to the evening sky and dance among the clouds until darkness eventually falls. Cozying up to the campsite we make a simple dinner of salmon and green beans using our cast-iron over the campfire. Our sweet girl retires to her sleep tent and mom and dad unwind with a bottle of wine and a game of Gin Rummy. Bed eventually calls and we sneak into our sleeping bags and drift off to the very gentle waves of Lake Powell. In the morning we take a break from our camp life and revisit civilization for a brief moment. Next up, the drive through Monument Valley and a retreat to The Domes.

The Domes

We pack up our tranquil campsite by the lake and take to the highway. We come to a fork in the road, South to Highway 89 will take us to Horse Shoe Bend and Antelope Canyon, East to Highway 98 inches us closer to something I have been dreaming of the past 4 days, running water and a hot shower, we head East. Wanting to make the most of our drive we take the scenic route to heading North onto highway 163 from 160. We stoped at this junction, Kayenta, AZ, for lunch and tried the Navajo taco! Something definitely to try and plenty big enough to share if you get it from Amigo Cafe. Back on the road from there, the horizon begins to stretch in each direction as red rock formations come into focus and you follow the long and straight road before you into Monument Valley. We run into a little car trouble on the way to the Domes, a slipped throttle cable responsible for our lag in power that was preventing us to really tackle some of the wily inclines. A quick pit stop and some on the fly mechanic work by my husband and we work back in motion, our engine now churning at its full potential, and what a difference it made! We finally made it to the Domes in Monticello, an Air B&B we had reserved strategically halfway through our trip for a chance to recharge, sleeping in a bed, not have to unpack, and most importantly SHOWER! Our stay at the Domes was so relaxing and unique, if you have the chance, we highly recommend. The space is taken care of so well with detached but private restrooms, extremely well kept and tastefully decorated spaces and a grill/fire pit to unwind at. The owners are very kind and give you complete privacy, though there were three other domes, we felt completely secluded. We all shower one more time in the morning and head off to the main attraction to our trip, Moab.

Moab

It was a quick hour drive from our Air B&B in Montecello to Moab National Park. The park is HUGE and you could spend days if not weeks here where you can camp in the park and explore all the natural beauty that surrounds. With so much to do and so many available hikes, we decided to narrow our gaze and chose to do the Delicate Arch Hike. It was most iconic in our opinion as it is the arch featured on almost all Utah license plates, welcoming signs and memorabilia. Once you drive about 20 minutes of road that twists and turns within the park, while passing so many alluring pit stops, you will reach the parking lot for the Delicate Arch Hike. It is about an hour long hike to reach the arch with no tree cover so plenty of water and sun protection is a must! We had packed a lunch and when we reached the arch, we sat and enjoyed the view of its seemingly impossible structure. It is certainly a bucket list hike in my opinion. A lot of people had arrived and were lining up to have their photos taken under the arch. Though it looks quite intimidating, there is a reasonably safe photo op under the arch where you will have no problem finding a volunteer to snap a family photo for you, as long as you are willing to return the favor! I do not recommend young children, especially those who have a knack for running around and not listening, to do this hike. We kept our wobbly walker in her carrier, perhaps we will return when she is a little more sturdy and mature. We get back to the car and gulp down a little more water before we adventure to our next camp site, a FreeRoam discover about an hour out of the park, what I like to call Long Canyon Road.

Long Canyon Road

We find our campsite from the Free Roam app and drive somewhat counter productively to our next sleeping grounds. What we would imagine to be a spacious and private spot is actually bustling with families, rowdy off roaders, dune buggy crews and plenty of Jeepsters. The only somewhat peaceful available section of dirt lays 200 feet off the road with the only passage involving loose gravel, steep drop off of rock, and uneven terrain. We let some air out of the tires, lock in the front wheels, and do what IH are meant to do..we Scout. A slow and bumpy ride brings us inches closer to what feels like the edge of the earth and where we will make camp. From where we level out our truck, you can walk down hill about 150 feet where we were happy to find a established fire pit. Just beyond that, about another 50 feet is a very abrupt and steep drop off. Standing near the cliffs edge you can see part of the canyon sweeping in either direction. It is truly a unique and beautiful corner of nature. We build a little fire and cheers with a Campari Spritz to celebrate the apex of our trip being completed. Shadows stretch into the canyon and we are again met by our freckle faced sky we have come to know so well and we welcome the night sky like an old friend. Before long, morning comes, we pack up, crawl our Scout back up to the paved road and lay some more pavement behind us. We are off to our final campsite.

Mammoth Designated Dispersed Camping Ground

We roll into the campground a little after 3 pm. There are plenty of vacant sites but we take our time to peruse the lands and finally find what we are looking for, a somewhat remote site right by the bubbling creek. We cozy our Scout as close to the water as possible and affix our nature made leveling blocks (surrounding rocks). This site lays at the top of my list for favorites during the trip. Perhaps the exchange for dust and red rock for pines and a sparkling stream brought a happy and almost zen change scenery. Sitting in a valley of two hillsides, we lost the sunlight quickly and didn’t feels it’s warmth until late morning hours. It got cold! With the fire restrictions we had just our propane stove to provide heat but quickly set for bed after dinner and a shot of bourbon. The three of us snuggled in was just warm enough to sleep through the night and in the morning we warmed through with a coffee in the cab of the scout till the sun peaked over the hill and drown our site with its rays. After a very quiet and peaceful nature walk, we get packed up for the last time and head out to meet our friends once more in Las Vegas. The drive teases us with glimpses of Bryce Canyon and back through Zion. We already make plans for our next trip out and the places we want to explore and revisit.

How exciting is it when you finally decide on a destination to travel to! My husband and I have shared not just a passion for travel, but experiences. We put serious efforts into making the most of each destination with countless hours and late nights of researching and preparing. The most genuine goal we aim to achieve is to find the most unique stays on roads less traveled. We enjoyed spending our time in our travels pretending to be locals and steering clear of big crowds and tourists traps. Come take a look to what we have been up to!