The purpose of this post is to inspire international travel with the aspirations to live like a local. A big part of this is doing your homework and finding unique AirBnB’s that suit you and your families needs. This may mean skipping those cushy hotels and the oh so instagramable tourist hot spots and discovering the smaller, quieter hidden gems sprinkled all around Italy really. I am not saying do not go to the classics: Positano, Amalfi, Capri. Only suggesting that you may find a more fulfilling experience if you are truly surrounded by locals, evade the crowds, and experience the small pockets of Italy that only locals know.
Arriving in Rome
We travel from Boston to Rome on a non-stop flight. I think the key to traveling anywhere with kids is finding things that suit their personalities and you really can never have enough snacks. I usually buy a new toy that they get to open on the flight because even 10 minutes of peace is worth every penny. We downloaded every movie and show we could think of and each child has their own tablet. For us, all rules go out the window especially when we are trying to keep a peaceful ride for our fellow travelers. Even though we are planning to head south past Naples, we opt to land in Rome for a few reasons. We have been there a time or to before so there was a level of familiarity, it is VERY family friendly and has bathrooms suitable for little ones with low sinks and changing tables, indoor play area in Terminal 1 & 3 and highchairs in the dining areas. The walk to the rental cars was long from our gate but is was all indoors and the process really was pretty simple.
Conca dei Marini
In the car! We bring our own car seats that are lightweight and fit in one travel backpack together which is super helpful! After those are installed we pack up the rest of our bags, buckle in the kids, and head to our first destination Conca dei Marini. We did pass by Napoli and stopped for a pizza. For us, its all we needed especially traveling with kids. It is very crowded, busy, high traffic and just not the vibe we are looking for on this trip though I am sure holds beautiful secrets and charms to be discovered, next time!
We stayed at a Villa that we booked on Air B&B. Our time in Conca di Marini was brief but we really felt as though we were living like the locals. Walking to the shops and restaurants, one restaurant in particular was just perfect with the most amazing food and huge ocean views and also what seemed to be a wedding venue, Le Bonta del Capo. We wanted to be a little ways up on the coast so we could really take in the beauty of the landscape and big ocean views! Unfortunately it was overcast for most our stay but it did not deter us from having a great time! We made the trek down to the ocean, toddlers in tow, which made the 20 minute walk feel more like 20 hours! We had physically and mentally prepared to the burden it would be to take on all those stair and do not regret a moment. Finally reaching the rocky shore, we rewarded ourselves with Limoncello and french fries from the wonderfully quaint restaurants followed by a dip in the warm Mediterranean. We had scheduled a pasta making class so our bliss was short lived as we hiked back up to our Villa and into the car to head to the booking. We arrived and were welcomed with, well desereved, wine and jumped right into kneading and rolling pasta. The hosts were fun, funny, and kind, involving the kids in the experience.
Cetera
We chose to skip over the actual town of Amalfi and as we drove by, our choice was validated. The flooding of tourists and crowds just does not appeal to us so we found ourselves at a fisherman village called Cetera. Our rental home was right on the water that we could jump right off the cliff into the water. Too choppy for the kids to swim but they enjoyed playing in the outdoor shower. The parking was a bit tricky but our host was very accommodating and made our stay so easy. True to Amalfi style, there were stairs everywhere, but we were in no hurry and let our kids walk and explore the town.
Mornings were spent walking the winding stairs to the village center to pick up croissants and coffee. There was a children’s playground and beach we would pick up a pizza and walk to. Nights we went to the Al Fresco restaurants and eat the local seafood flavors.
A spectacular beach club is carved right down the road called Giardini del Fuenti where we had a fantastic day letting someone lend us a hand and serve us food and drinks while the kids played in the tide pools. There was no shortage of sunshine, treats and fun cocktails as we watch boats go by and the sun sparkle off the ocean from our cabana. Highly recommend!
Fully recharged, we head to our next destination Alberobello. A few hours heading east we make it to our next detonation where we stay in a truly magical Airbnb design in Trulli style with our own pool and spa. The property was perfectly manicured with herbs and plants sculpting the landscape complete with a small garden and fig tree grove. Our favorite accommodations to date with all the peace and quiet you would want.
A common practice when we travel is to find accommodations where we truly enjoy the space and relax. We will pick up some grocery staples and some interesting local flavors to enjoy in the peace of our Airbnb. This home is a perfect example of a home that we just didn’t want to leave. The outdoor grilling area, pool, and magnificent sunsets made this place very special where the kids explored and we sipped on our limoncello spritz. On this trip we did venture to a few restaurants which can be stressful but not impossible! I believe the only way to set expectations on how to behave in public and restaurants is to simple go out and work through the struggles. It’s important for children to understand social norms and acceptable behavior, it can be hard but not impossible and can open up a culinary and dining world for them that you all can enjoy!
Lucera, Puglia
Sadly leaving our oasis in Alberobello, we head to Lucera to spend a few nights at a farmstay. On our drive there we stop in Monopoly for lunch. We only had a few hours here but I would go back for an entire week to stay in Monopoly. It reminds me of a coastal style mix between Venice and Rome on a smaller, more intimate scale. The streets are lined with hidden gem bakeries, restaurants, gelato shops, wine tastings and more. Cars are few when you get to the narrow streets to make walking in the shade of the tall buildings peaceful. The water surrounding the little town is a beautiful aqua and the churches are stunningly ornate with bells that ring off throughout the day. A truly charming town that you could get lost and found in all at the same time.
Back on the road to Lucera! I would be lying if I didn’t get the slightest bit nervous while heading to our Airbnb. As we left the coastline in our rearview mirror and inch inland, the flat vast landscape seemed to be losing its charm. Finally reaching our destination, all my worries faded away as we entered through a gated paved long drive into our private little farm stay. The owners, Gorgio and Maryann, take great pride in their property where they had also gotten married at! The Gorgio is not only the care taker of the animals but also the chef of all our meals. He meticulously crafted locally sourced ingredients for our meals during our stay. They gave us a tour of the property and let us know that the WIFI is spotty so that if we needed anything, we could ring the bell in the courtyard. Mornings, the kids would grab baskets and we would help him retrieve the eggs for our breakfast. Maryann made cookies for the kids and gaspachio for us. I can not tell you how delicious the gaspachio was and how I wish I hade the recipe! The property was so safe and so many places for the kids to play and discover. They even introduced us to their parakeet Viti who loves to place soccer and was a great time for the kids! After naps we would have strolls down to the fields and drink wine while we eventually watched the sun begin to set and head to dinner with a perfect set table for us in the courtyard. They dogs and cats on the grounds were playful guest to our dining with perfect manners and sweet demeanor, happily engaging with the kids.
Ciampino
Our last stay we chose strategically to position us better for heading back to the airport to catch a morning flight. About 15 minutes outside of Rome we discovered a enchanting Roman style home that will take you back through time. The grounds are vast and private tucked in a massive olive tree grove. What we loved about this space is the serenity we found just outside the city. The BBQ pit was perfect for grilling some meats and veggies that we procured from the local grocery store. During the day there was a sprinkler we set up for the kids to cool down in and a bike that they loved taking turns getting a ride on. We spent the golden evenings sipping wine and getting lost in the perfect rows of olive trees that expand as far as you can see.
So that’s our trip. They say that it’s silly to travel with young kids, its too much work and they won’t remember it. Maybe that’s true but these are my memories, my husbands memories, that we will cherish. When our kids are grown these are the stories I will tell my daughter about the time we climbed 1000 steps for croissants in the morning. I’ll tell my son every local tried to hold him and fell in love with his blond curls and blue eyes. They may not remember this trip, but we are building the foundation that inspires travel, adventure, culture and love which we hope to build into their lives from the very beginning.
Graze + Travel 